Even if you are not deeply immersed in the fragrance world, you have undoubtedly witnessed the global rise of Middle Eastern scents. That intoxicating scent trail that passes you on Oxford Street in London, the exotic spice that turns your head in the elevator… but what is it that has fueled this rise and what is it about Middle Eastern scents that the western world cannot get enough of? Let’s take a look and see what we can find out.
Middle Eastern perfume for the new generations
As with many things nowadays, social media has helped to fuel the interest in Middle Eastern perfumes, especially on TikTok. The trend, which started in 2012, has been boosted by the rise in short form videos. These have opened up the world of traditional self-care regimes across the globe, exposing the western world to the routines and rituals of other cultures. In much the same way as the beauty industry fell for South Korean skincare, so too is the fragrance world becoming enamoured with the centuries-old traditions of Middle Eastern perfume.
And for good reason! These are scents that grab the attention and captivate an audience long after the wearer has first applied it, and it is this longevity that is an enticing selling point for many who are used to scents that are all but gone by lunchtime. So, how is a perfume trend spread by a medium that cannot let you smell the scent yourself? Simple: the power of story telling and the selling of an idea.
Selling by story telling
What began as a niche trend among perfume and aftershave fans, has been spread to a larger audience by beauty and fragrance influencers, such as Mona Kattan, sister to Huda Kattan (of Huda Beauty fame) who then went on to create Kayaki, her perfume range that combines her heritage with western marketing. She appeals to the aesthetic obsessed audiences -who want to be clearly defined by their style & lifestyle choices- by sharing alluring ideas and stories as much as the exact smells themselves: "fragrance layering combinations to smell like an Arabian Princess” is just as important but more successful at reaching potential customers than “layer combinations of oud and rose fragrances.” As with much of western advertising – they are selling an ideal aesthetic and a lifestyle as much as the actual physical product.
Yet, the explosion of Middle Eastern Fragrance is not limited to the online world of short form video and generation Z - it is something that the perfume industry is also seeing growth in. The Middle East fragrances market size reached a value of approximately $3.76 billion in 2023, according to Expert Market Research, and this is projected to keep on growing for the foreseeable. Ravi Ramchandani, show manager at Messe Frankfurt (one of the world’s largest trade fairs), had this to say about the current fragrance market:
“The influence of the Middle East on the Western fragrance market has been profound in recent years. From the global adoption of oud, (with different levels of intensity and authenticity) to the shift of consumer preference toward rich and opulent scent, Middle Eastern perfumery has moved from niche to mainstream.”
It looks as though the interest in Middle Eastern fragrance is here to stay. But what is it about it that makes it so popular? It is so much more than just the scent. Let us explain:
Middle Eastern scents: a cultural tradition
The art of perfumery in the Middle East dates back centuries and is deeply embedded in many cultural and religious practices. Ingredients such as oud, frankincense, and myrrh have been integral to both specific rituals and daily life. Persian polymath Ibn Sina (Avicenna) revolutionised the extraction of essential oils through distillation, a technique that significantly influenced Western perfumery. Traditional scents are typically oil-based, offering longevity and a pronounced presence, which stands in contrast to Western perfumes that frequently utilise alcohol bases with lighter, floral, or citrus notes, emphasising subtlety and freshness.
For the story loving modern audiences, the rich traditions of scent -that are not only preserved but celebrated- in modern Middle Eastern fragrances, make them a wonderful bridge between the past and the present, resonating with those who value history and artistry in their scent choices.
As well as being steeped in centuries of tradition, Middle eastern perfumes are beloved for their complexity, imbued with the skill of layering powerful natural ingredients (such as the unmistakable oud) that can create an olfactory experience that feels rich, unique and luxurious. Oud is already seen as a luxury ingredient, and is much sought after in the Gulf nations and nearby countries, but it is set to soar in the coming years, as the western markets have fallen under the spell of its intoxicating scent, spurred on by the release of Tom Ford’s Oud Wood, in 2007. Oud is not the only highlight of Arabian fragrance, however.
Far from the understated notes found in traditional western scents, Middle Eastern fragrances (sometimes confusingly referred to as Oriental scents) are made up of rich, intense scents such as OUD, MUSK, ROSE, AMBER - ingredients that are of the highest quality and can be used to complex compositions. Bespoke yet indulgent. Something that the modern consumer is after: something that sets them apart. Which brings us on to the next big selling point - the viral phenomenon of layering.
The ancient art of layering
Layering, or combining multiple fragrances to create a personalised scent, is a longstanding Middle Eastern practice. Middle Eastern perfume relies on layering to amplify the richness and complexity of its notes, enhancing the depth of the fragrance. This layering (which is hugely appealing to regime obsessed beauty fans) can come in many forms, from simply wearing two scents at once, to a full regime of walking through incense smoke, using rose water and precious oils on the skin, before applying rich extract based perfumes. The combination will then react uniquely with the wearers skin and natural scent to create something utterly beguiling and, most importantly, completely individual.
Creating something unique while using luxury, natural ingredients appeals to the modern audience, and traditional art of layering middle eastern scents allows for this, in an expressive way that is ideal for the story telling world of social media. On TikTok alone there are millions of views for #FragranceLayering and #ArabianPerfume, showing that gone are the days of the western idea of having one ‘signature’ scent that actually thousands of other people wear, and instead we can now create something utterly beguiling and intrinsically unique.
Middle Eastern Perfume vs Western Perfume
Culturally, Middle Eastern fragrances are deeply tied to identity and tradition, often symbolising heritage and status. Western scents, on the other hand, are more often seen as accessories that reflect personal style and are more geared to align with seasonal trends. This juxtaposition highlights the unique allure of Middle Eastern scents in the Western market, offering something bold and timeless.
France, Italy and Spain all have long histories for creating globally appealing scents, with America joining them in more recent times, but the emphasis has always been on mass production and a few select ‘noses’ to craft the next season’s ‘must have’ scent. The focus is usually on the top note and, with some exceptions, are designed to convey a modern freshness, with a bit of musk added for a night time appeal.
Maybe the popularity for Middle Eastern fragrance is merely the yearning for something different from this and something that is noticeably at odds with what came before in their own country. Or perhaps people are bored with the notes found within perfumes sold in the west, that are often lighter, cleaner and more commercially created, with such a strong emphasis on floral, fruity, or citrus tones. They have long been marketed with clear gender distinctions and focus on creating wearable, accessible scents, whereas Middle Eastern scents are usually non-gendered in nature.
The wonderful thing about the perfume world and the concept of layering, is that you do not have to choose one or the other. With all sorts of fragrances, in oil, EDT or EDP form, readily available, now is truly a golden age for experimentation and finding the combination that works best just for you.
A statement of luxury for all the senses
Middle Eastern perfumes epitomise luxury, not only through their rich scents that speak of palaces and history, but also via their exquisite packaging and high quality ingredients. Intricately designed bottles, often adorned with ornate details, reflect the opulence within. Even the packaging is important. Far from the minimal aesthetic, we have elegant calligraphy, bold jewel like colours and bottle designs that could easily be mistaken for objet d’art. This adds to the experience as a whole - collectible items, elevating the act of putting on scent as so much more than self care - it is an art form and one that can be undertaken with pride and beauty: a key theme that resonates deeply with the ethos of perfume from the Middle East.
Purchasing such a perfume is not merely acquiring a scent but embracing a lifestyle steeped in elegance and tradition. This sensory and aesthetic appeal has made Middle Eastern fragrances a statement of sophistication.
What is also appealing about these items is the price. While the western world is more focussed on an exclusivity mentality in terms of perfume, there is an egalitarian nature to middle eastern scents. Yes, there will be high end versions made of the finest materials, but due to the importance of the ritual, the pride taken over self care and the bespoke nature of their creations - it is a luxury that is afforded in some way, by all. While still clearly a premium product, especially for the ingredients used and the silage on offer, many Middle Eastern perfumes and fragrances are offered at a price that allow you to feel luxurious on a daily basis, and that really, is worth its weight in gold.
The leading voices in Middle Eastern fragrances
There are several brands that have been instrumental in bringing traditional and contemporary Middle Eastern inspired fragrances to the global market.
Here are the market leaders that are quickly becoming household names:
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Lattafa: Family run for three generations, they are known for crafting high-quality, affordable fragrances that blend traditional Middle Eastern notes with contemporary trends. The eponymous Lattafa Yara has had its own viral moment since launching in 2020.
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Afnan: Offers a diverse range of perfumes, combining rich oriental ingredients with modern perfumery techniques, appealing to a wide audience. Afnan 9pm is particularly popular, known for its strong, sweet, and long-lasting scent profile, with prominent vanilla and amber notes.
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French Avenue: Specialises in luxurious scents that fuse French perfumery artistry with Middle Eastern olfactory traditions, creating unique and sophisticated fragrances. Their Liquid Brun caused a sensation in 2024, becoming a favourite gourmand scent for those wanting a "beast mode" scent.
Final thoughts
The rising popularity of Middle Eastern fragrances in the Western world signifies a harmonious blend of cultures, traditions, and modern trends. As more individuals seek distinctive and luxurious scent experiences, the rich heritage and artistry of Middle Eastern perfumery continue to leave an indelible mark on the global fragrance landscape. This enduring appeal showcases the universal language of fragrance, connecting people across cultures and generations.
Companies such as Fragrancehub are bringing the mystique of elegant middle eastern scent to the UK, making them accessible to all those who wish to raise their fragrance game.